Having the opportunity to spend a whole week together, we decided to put laziness aside and do something interesting. It was a time to plan a trip around the town, so i've dusted off the guide to Warsaw called Spacerownik (spacer is a stroll, so the name stands for a book with routes for walking around the city). The book was written by a journalist from Gazeta Wyborcza, famous varsavianist (a guy obsessed with Warsaw), apart from typical tours it offers in-depth look in the history of Polish capital and some pretty cool stories about people and places from the past. We chose Ochota district as our target, it's quite an old place in Warsaw, home of lawyers, economists and engineers before Second World War, full of moody, little streets with dark trees and houses built in early XX century.
Our trip started near Warsaw Lindley Water Filters, it was Great Saturday, Easter time, so there weren't many people around as it was the time for catholics to visit churches and then eat a lot of food, as people tend to do on such occasions. And there stood before us the church of Christ, right next to very old hospital, it was built before 1901 by polish architect Józef Pius Dziekoński and served as a hospital's church before the war. In the past on the other side of the hospital stood his brother the Orthodox Church, but apparently it was destroyed. In front of the church we found a gloomy skull looking at us from a pedestal, probably grinning too, but it had only upper half of teeth, so let's not judge the poor guy too fast. The skull was made in XVIII century and stood in different part of the city and later moved here, near the Christ Hospital to commemorate 30 thousand people that died in the Hospital before 1799.
Passing quietly next to the church - quietly because it was Easter and there were some people outside the church waiting for priest to sprinkle their painted eggs with holy water - we moved to the gates of Warsaw Lindley Water Filters. But before we lay our eyes on red bricks of filters, on the small grass square between pavement we encountered a massive stone with barely recognizable writings. Our guide explained that this stone was set here as a mark of brotherhood between communist Yugoslavia of mister Tito and communist Poland of mister Bierut. Friendship ended really fast and boulder is now slowly decaying.
To the filters then! Maybe not as impressive as Roman Aqueduct these filters do their job well enough. Built in XIX century, they remain now one of the most beautiful industry complex in Warsaw with high chances to be put in UNESCO World Heritage Programme. Architects were from England, William and William Lindley (one is the son, the other the father, you can guess who is who) and the idea of building such a thing struck the head of then-president of Warsaw, general Socrates Starynkiewicz. Methods used during the construction were the most advanced they could think of, the interior looks like some creepy gothic building. Unfortunately, the filters are only open for tourists during the summer holidays, so we couldn't take a peek inside. You can read more about the filters and see some pictures on this page After the filters we followed our path and found ourselves in magical world of the past. Small streets surrounded by XIX and early XX century houses charmed us with their distinguished beauty. Some falling apart, others restored, all of them looked amazing, almost out of place in the hustle-bustle of the city. Unfortunately, we were charmed too much, so we don't have many pictures from that place, therefore we decided to put some pictures from the web instead of ours. And that's how it looked like before the war.

Langiewicza Street was the most beautiful place we discovered on that day. Before the war many famous people lived there, to name just a few of them: Julian Eberhardt, excellent railroad engineer, Stanisław Dygat, writer and even one of the polish presidents Stanislaw Wojciechowski. The duplex on a picture to the right was called *Little Belvedere* and was considered the prettiest building in Staszic Colony. Many prominent people lived there, politicians, economists, artists. As you can see, after the war communists probably didn't feel like restoring this temple of decadence so now it is falling apart. When we have been walking next to it, we could see that it was probably occupied by homeless people.We dove deeper into tight streets of Staszic Colony, learning about long dead inhabitants of those houses, enjoying the atmosphere of pre-war Warsaw, while it lasted. In the middle of this forgotten world we encountered a pink house that turned out to be a kindergarden. On the fence there were drawings made by children and fake pink flowers decorated the trees.

At the end of our trip we saw a very charming balcony that must have belonged to some artist or at least someone with artistic soul. This time we remembered to take a picture